PART THREE
THE FORM
We can’t get dressed in 2D; this is where pattern makers come in. Once our lead designer approves the sketch, they employ their pattern expertise to cut a sample. This step is all about the form, cutting the fabric and tweaking its dimensions until it lays idyllically on our mannequins. They are experts in the female figure and create dimensions to not only fit but also to flatter.

Their well-honed technique and knowledge of fabric and measurements is key to turning a flat-drawn sketch into a tailored garment that can accommodate natural female curves. The same dress may lay differently depending on the structure or stretch the fabric provides. They employ technical expertise to create practical measurements that can bring the designer’s vision to life. Standard pattern-making mannequins are helpful throughout this process and allow them to see how a fabric lays and stretches on their curves.

They take into consideration areas of the body in movement, cutting the design so that it stuns at every angle. Some fabrics call for different dimensions in the same style. The lining or lack off can affect the way they cut a pattern. If there is a combination of a sheer-like effect and a high level of stretch, lining may be necessary for when it stretches around the bottom.
The draping ability of different fabrics varies. When an elegant drape is a part of the sketched aesthetic, it is important to choose fabric that can achieve this look. Pattern makers will cut the material so that it drapes in the right places while maintaining its shape.
We make over 70 dresses a week, so thankfully their technical design savvy can create a perfectly measured piece using our in-house figures. For some trickier styles or new fabric and silhouette combinations, we may need a real person to show us how it looks. Often this is one of our catalog models that shoot artful images of the final product. If it is a day when they are not in the office, our female employees may be asked to model the look!

The world is full of inspiration, and fashions change rapidly. With a robust team that is never short on creative inspiration, we are able to drop new collections every week and always be designing the next one.
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